Kuala Lipis developed as an early trading centre for gold and forest products and became the state capital from 1898 to 1955. The town was established in 1863, with most commercial activity conducted from rafthouses moored along the Jelai River. In 1888, permanent buildings were erected and businesses relocated to their present location. The compact town centre is lined with old two-storey shophouses, typical of Malaysian towns. A roadside marker in front of the Post Office indicates the town’s importance when it was the state capital Kuala Lipis, located where the Lipis and Jelai Rivers meet, and several heritage buildings reflect the town’s past. Lipis District Office, dating to 1919, still houses several government departments. This distinctive red and white building occupies a commanding position above the town.
The Muzium Warisan Lipis building, with its local history and cultural displays, was once occupied by the British Resident. Clifford School was established in 1913 and the Malay Hostel was added in 1929 to house students from remote areas. The distinctive black and white Pahang Club, built from timber, was once the centre of the town’s social life. The first mosque in Kuala Lipis was erected in 1888, while Thean Hou Temple welcomed its first worshippers in 1898. Jalan Besar is the town’s commercial heart, with the Post Office, Railway Station and numerous shoplots located here. These shops provide essential products and services, including fishing gear for those interested in catching prized river fish. The multi-stepped Medan Tangga is a covered walkway with a few dining outlets, including one that sells the famous pulut rendang, or slowcooked beef with spices.
Locally-caught ikan patin and tilapia river fish are served in many Kuala Lipis restaurants. Different cooking styles include gulai tempoyak ikan patin (curry broth and fermented durian) and gulai asam rong (cooked with rubber tree fruits). The ikan patin served at Azmi Steam Fish has attained notoriety, while ikan bakar (barbecued fish) is popular, especially at the pasar malam (night market). Another celebrated dish is Hakka mee, served at the Chong Ko Hakka Noodle outlet. Sambal hitam (black chilli paste) is a local favourite used in cooking or served as a spicy accompaniment to many dishes.
Nearby, Kenong Rimba Park is a nature reserve comprising primary forest, amazing limestone caves and wild rivers. It’s only accessible by boat along the forest-lined Kenong River. Nature lovers can admire Kenong Rimba’s caves while having the forests all to themselves at a riverside campsite. While the park especially caters to spelunkers (cavers) and kayakers, tourists who are interested in nature will be enthralled by its flora and fauna. Merapoh is the gateway for Taman Negara Sungai Relau and the multi-day return trek to the Gunung Tahan summit, the highest peak on the Malaysian peninsula at 2,187m. While challenging, it’s shorter than the more recognised seven-day ascent from Kuala Tahan on the Tembeling River. Other adrenaline-charged adventures here include kayaking, caving and trekking on and near the Relau and Tanum Rivers. Guests at places like Homestay Sungai Medang can experience daily village life.
They can savour dishes prepared from farm-grown fruits and vegetables. The railway arrived in Kuala Lipis in 1926 to provide a vital link to the rest of the country. Malaysia’s ‘Jungle Railway’ from Kelantan to Gemas and onto Johor Bahru for Singapore passes through the town. Daily trains also operate to and from Gua Musang. Kuala Lipis is located 170 km from Kuala Lumpur and 250 km from Kuantan.
